Fanatically Fresh Fish…and Cheese Grits

Fanatically Fresh Fish…and Cheese Grits
Fanatically Fresh Fish…and Cheese Grits
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Yellow Umbrella, or “Yellah Umbrellah” as my mom & dad call it, has been serving up choice seafood in Richmond’s West End since 1975. It’s my go-to for extraordinary – and sustainably harvested – fresh fish. They also sold remarkable prepared cheese grits – go figure.


In February they added “Provisions” to their name and moved.  Right across the street, mind you–making them way bigger and even better. I imagine much to The Belmont Butchery’s chagrin, they now boast a nose-to-tail butcher shop with humanely-raised meat sans antibiotics and hormones. Even better, they offer ‘cellar-to-table’ wines and cheeses, seasonal produce, artisanal breads, homemade prepared foods and great provisions.


Their website claims they have fanatical service and I’m here to tell you it’s true. Recently, whilst preparing a dinner party for 6, I wanted a whole fish: enter Travis.  He expected Rockfish, Red Snapper and Branzino the next day, but didn’t’ know the exact specs. Why?



Branzino ready to grill (L) and ready to eat (R)

Because the fish wasn’t even caught yet!


Travis called me the next morning with the option of a 15 lb. Rockfish.  Too big; parade rained on.  I settled on 4 large Branzino and about 6 lbs. of mussels (and a huge chunk of those cheese grits). A sensational cooking feast ensued. The mussels were so plump, briny and rich – and the Branzino – which was roasted whole with garlic & lemon, was bracingly fresh, simple and exquisite.


Get yourselves to Yellah Umbrellah Provisions forthwith, Richmonders!


 Here’s my recipe: Spicy Coconut Mussels with Lemongrass.

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