Before leaving Los Angeles I was told what I would miss the most would be sushi and Mexican food. Makes sense, but I recalled a restaurant that my dad took me to at least once a week for my entire childhood, La Casita.

 

Last week, when I had a craving for some Mexican food, I called my dad and practically did back flips when I he told me La Casita was, in fact, still in the same spot, with the same menu, and even just about the same prices (read: joyously inexpensive).

 

Returning after 20 years and walking through the portal-like entry of the little house, with the warm heat enveloping my skin was like a bear hug. Welcome home, dear. We’ve missed you. It was as though I had stepped into a time capsule: everything was exactly as I had remembered, like a shanty-town, rustic palapa with neverending Christmas lights.

 

 

Then, they placed in front of me (bottomless and gratis) warm tortilla chips with The 3 salsas: red (medium), white (hot) and green (it’ll blow your lid off, but good). The white has always been, and remains, my favorite. I imagine it’s pretty popular as we heard every table asking after it. They won’t tell you the recipe, but you can purchase a jug to take home. The best description I can muster would be creamy, garlicky, zesty, Cool Ranch Dorito dip nectar of the gods. I could eat it like soup. The guacamole is standard but could use a great deal more salt ($4).

 

We were all absolutely satisfied with our margaritas ($4.50 each) and entrees. My taco salad (“Great for those watching their waist”) had corn tortillas fried and smothered with beef, covered with lettuce, cheese and tomatoes (sm: $5.50 lg: $6.50). The dressing that comes on the side is really the driving force for the order; it’s akin to a thousand island with a hip tang, a bite, an edge.

 

This place has its sauces solid. The pork on Dad’s carnitas plate (a ‘special menu’ item, $11.95) was succulent, rich, perfectly cooked and fell apart beautifully. He said it was the best pork he’s ever had at a Mexican restaurant. Fred ordered another ‘special menu’ item: the Chori-Pollo dinner, which was chicken breasts blanketed in a cheese and chorizo sauce ($11.50). Both dinners were served with Mexican rice and refried beans. The portions are massive. Try as we may, none of us were able to clean our plates. And that’s saying something if you’ve ever shared a meal with Fred.

 

 

No, the food is not the authentic, Mexican cuisine I was warned I would miss. It falls into the category of exactly-what-one-craves-and-expects-when-one-craves-and-expects-traditional-American-Mexican-food. And it’s done decidedly well. Moreover, the manager and staff welcome curve balls: have a hankering for chilequiles, Oaxacan mole, tacos suadero? Just ask or give a call in advance and they will happily oblige if possible.

 

And be sure to grab a jug of that elusive white salsa to take home.

 

PHOTOS BY FREDERICK TURKO